We work hard to gather information from our customers and search for ways to improve our processes, product quality, and fit. Here’s a behind-the-scenes peek into what we’re doing to improve our fit, quality, and consistency across all sizes.
When we grew enough to expand our size range, we wanted to do it in the best way possible to honor diverse body shapes. We divided our size range into Misses and Plus categories, and we work with Plus sized fit models who help guide our decisions.
Development Overview
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Fabric
1.5+ years out, we work with our global textile mill partners to develop custom fabrics from scratch to bring you the most innovative wool fabrics on the market.
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Base sizes
Typically sizes 00-20 might be considered Misses, and sizes 14+ are considered Plus. Based on research and customer demographics, each brand chooses base size(s) to fit. Our base sizes are medium and 2X.
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Prototypes
Up to a year before launch, we get prototypes and samples, and fit our base sized prototypes on various real bodies. We review each piece and make pattern adjustments as needed, typically finalizing each piece after 3-5 versions.
In 2022 we hired a pattern maker who specializes in Plus size fit and has experience fitting to size 30 (roughly a size 4X).
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Grading
Grading involves increasing/decreasing pattern measurements by set amounts to complete the size range. Some brands use one base size and grade all the way up to XXXL or beyond. This can cause a style to fit poorly, as body proportions change at larger sizes.
We grade our patterns differently for Misses and Plus. For example, chest width might change 5cm between Misses sizes, but might change 10cm for Plus sizes to account for larger proportions.
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Wear testing
Each style is assessed individually and compared to our existing assortment to ensure that it has its best shape, size, silhouette, and details.
Photos of Plus sized dress forms and 3D avatars from our supplier, Alvanon.
Our knit vendor uses the same dress forms that we do, in both medium and 2X. Therefore, when we make changes or show images of prototypes on our dress forms and fit models, our vendors can easily understand and make changes. This reduces the time and number of prototypes required before a garment is finalized.
May 2024 Update
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Added 3X sizes
We tested offering 3X in select styles and listened to customer feedback. All styles offered in Plus include size 3X going forward.
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Plus long sizes
We've tested and adopted an expansion into Long lengths of Plus sizes on some of our top-selling dresses.
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Fit consistency
We are focused on offering better fit consistency between Misses and Plus sizes. Some variation in ease (the difference between garment and body measurements) is necessary to offer the best fit in each size range.
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Fit updates
We make updates to our Plus styles when feedback shows us a need. For example, based on customer feedback, we added more ease to the skirt of the Brooklyn Wrap Dress in Plus sizes.
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Additional feedback
We have added more Plus size wear testers to check our grading on more body types and heights. We would love to add more local wear testers to our roster!
Chantel is 5'10" and wears a size 3X.
Plus size ranges are often overlooked in the fashion industry. To our Plus customers: we hear you, we see you, and we will continue to listen to your feedback to make the best possible product for you.
We’re committed to ensuring that our products have a reliable and consistent fit, so we are working hard to learn from your feedback and partner with industry professionals to deliver improvements.